What happened in the Westman Islands in 1973?

Icelandic terrain gives you a close look into the forces that created the island nation: volcanic land masses carved by glacial movement. And in the Westman Islands (off Iceland’s southern coast), you can see incredibly recent accounts of new land bubbling out of a crater or rising up from the sea.

On January 23, 1973, a volcanic fissure opened abruptly beside Heimaey (the largest island of the Westman Islands archipelago). Most of the island was evacuated. Today, you can hike and stand on Eldfell, the volcano that didn’t exist before that night.

From Heimaey, you’re also within sight of an island that started emerging from the Atlantic Ocean in 1963. This new island is called Surtsey.

There are other questions travelers bring to the Westman Islands, too: what are all these traditions about baby puffins about? Can someone come and go to the islands as a day trip? And why are they called the Westman Islands, anyway?

Learn about the new volcano that appeared there in 1973 and why the Westman Islands are one of the best places for puffin sightings and more.

What you’ll find in and around Heimaey#

Heimaey is the largest inhabited island of Vestmannaeyjar (the Icelandic name for the Westman Islands). It’s about 5.2 sq. mi. and has a population of just over 4,400 people.

On this inhabited island, you’ll find:

• An incredible local community. This is the largest and only permanently inhabited community in the Westman Islands. Its main economy is the fishing harbor.

• Eldfell, the volcano born during the 1973 eruption, sitting right next to the town.

• Surtsey. This is the island that began emerging from the ocean in 1963. It’s offered scientists the opportunity to observe life colonizing for the first time on entirely new land.

• Landscapes and hiking routes all around the rest of the archipelago. Each one of the volcanic islands offers a terrain of cliffs and sea stacks in a natural panoramic.

• Enormous seabird colonies, including the puffins (and baby puffins, or pufflings).

Why are they called the Westman Islands?#

The English name is a direct translation of Vestmannaeyjar. Vestmenn in Icelandic means “Westmen,” and eyjar means “islands.” But who were the Westmen?

The answer takes us back to Iceland’s settlement period. According to local stories, Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson, an influential Norse settler, was killed by enslaved men of Irish origin who then fled by boat to what are now the Westman Islands. Hjörleifur’s brother, Ingólfur Arnarson, pursued them there and killed them.

To the Norse, people from Ireland and the British Isles came from lands to the west and could therefore be called Vestmenn. The islands where the Westmen sought refuge thus became known as Vestmannaeyjar.

Many places around Heimaey are tied to these events and have names inspired by them, too.

The other residents: Puffins in the Westman Islands#

Volcanoes created the Westman Islands, but every spring, another force takes over the cliffs: puffins that arrive by the millions. You can also spot puffins elsewhere in Iceland, but the Westman Islands are particularly famous for the enormous colonies of puffins that come to roost.

Heimaey is one of the best places to admire these adorable sea birds. Puffins nest in burrows along slopes and cliffs and feed in the North Atlantic Ocean. During summer months, from the ferry that takes you to the Westman Islands to the many hiking trails and viewpoints, you can see streams of puffins flying between ocean and colony.

Toward the end of summer, the relationship between Heimaey and its puffins takes a turn when the island’s children go looking for baby puffins in the streets.

When can you see puffins in the Westman Islands?#

If seeing puffins is one of the reasons for your trip to the Westman Islands, then May through early September is the window to plan around. Puffins generally begin returning to Iceland in late April, and the main viewing season runs through the summer while the adult birds are nesting and repeatedly traveling between their burrows and the sea.

Puffins are seabirds rather than year-round residents of the cliffs. They spend most of their lives at sea and come ashore to breed. Once the breeding season ends, the adults and their young—the cute pufflings—leave Iceland and return to the North Atlantic.

Where is the best place to see puffins on Heimaey?#

The classic viewing spot for puffins is Stórhöfði in southern Heimaey. A dedicated puffin lookout gives you a place to watch the birds. Local guided puffin walks frequently meet here.

What is a puffling?#

Toward the end of summer, the Heimaey puffin population changes when the chicks are born. These baby puffins, or pufflings, spend their first weeks hidden inside the burrows. In late August or early September, they’re finally ready to depart. Once at sea, baby puffins begin the marine stage of their life.

But there’s an obstacle for some of them before they get there.

The lights of the human inhabitants on the island sometimes confuse young puffins. Instead of heading toward the Atlantic, pufflings can be drawn toward the illuminated town, where they end up on streets and in gardens.

How do children in the Westman Islands rescue baby puffins?#

During puffling season, Heimaey’s children and their families search the town after dark for baby puffins that have taken a wrong turn. They collect the stranded birds and return them to the coast, where they’re released toward the ocean. Birds that appear injured or otherwise need additional help can be assessed through the island’s puffin rescue operation.

For visitors, this is an irresistibly endearing story.

Can visitors participate in the puffling rescue?#

Potentially, but this is one experience you can’t schedule months in advance. Puffling season is dictated by the birds rather than the calendar. Local tourism information says it generally occurs from late August into early September and lasts around three to four weeks, but the exact dates vary year-to-year.

Guided puffling-rescue experiences are offered, but only once the season has begun.

Here are some key considerations when helping gather pufflings conscientiously:

• Pufflings come out at night, and local searches start well after nightfall

• The pufflings are collected in cardboard boxes with a warm blanket placed underneath

• Then they’re released the next morning, in the daytime, so that the lights of the town don’t continue to confuse them

• Local efforts include tagging the pufflings, too (the locals know how and where)

• Any other questions, ask the locals

What else should you see on Heimaey?#

Whether you come during puffin season or not, there’s plenty to see on Heimaey. For example:

• The ferry journey itself can be part of your sightseeing. The ferry’s entrance to Heimaey passes in between cliffs and volcanic formations with the town appearing beyond the harbor.

• Elephant Rock and the sea caves: These are best appreciated from the water. Boat trips around Heimaey reveal other cliffs, caves, rock formations and animal habitats that can’t be seen from land.

• The imposing mountain called Heimaklettur looms above the harbor and is one of Heimaey’s best hiking areas. Note that this route is steep and includes challenging sections, so gear up with the right hiking equipment.

• Stórhöfði is worth visiting even outside puffin season for its cliffs, views across the archipelago, and accessibility to popular hiking paths.

• The Beluga Whale Sanctuary (part of the SEA LIFE Trust sanctuary) is an eye-opening experience that some visitors consider the highlight of their trip.

• The town, harbor, local restaurants and fishing culture. Leave time to explore the working community with its charm as a traditional Icelandic fishing town.

• The “National Festival” (Þjóðhátíð in Icelandic) is an enormous annual summer festival at the beginning of August with days of camping, community, live music, fireworks, and much more. Travelers visiting around festival dates need to book well in advance.

What to pack for the Westman Islands#

Iceland’s weather shifts quickly, and the Westman Islands are no exception. Wind off the Atlantic reaches the cliffs even on clear days, and the ferry crossing brings its own conditions. When wind picks up on open water, spray from the waves can reach passengers on deck. Even if it doesn’t rain a drop during your trip to the islands, you’re likely to get wet on the ferry.

A waterproof outer layer, therefore, along with a warm mid-layer and sturdy footwear cover most of what a visit demands. For anyone caught off guard by the weather, an Icewear store on Heimaey carries outdoor gear built for exactly this kind of shifting Icelandic conditions.

Can you visit the Westman Islands as a day trip?#

Yes, you can. And the short ferry crossing makes Heimaey an easy add-on to any trip through the southern coast of Iceland.

How to get there and get around#

• The Herjólfur ferry normally sails from Landeyjahöfn, with a crossing time of roughly 35-45 minutes.

• Weather and sea conditions can affect schedules, so be sure to check current ferry as your trip approaches information.

• Rental cars can be taken on the ferry (subject to space and the rental company’s terms). Vehicle reservations just have to be made ahead of time.

• Most day-trippers, however, don’t necessarily need a car. The town, harbor, Eldfell, and several other sights are walkable. A car becomes more useful for reaching Stórhöfði and seeing more of the island with greater flexibility.

Is one day enough, or should you stay overnight?#

A day trip works well if you want to explore the town and harbor and choose one additional experience, like Eldfell or a boat trip.

But plan to stay overnight if you want to hike Heimaklettur, take a boat trip without rushing, explore several parts of the island, experience puffling season after dark, or have added flexibility in case of weather.

What if the weather is bad?#

North Atlantic weather can affect the ferry, boat trips, hiking and visibility. Be sure to check the Herjólfur ferry status before setting out and avoid putting a tightly timed flight or other critical connection immediately after your return journey.

If outdoor plans fall apart, the Beluga Whale Sanctuary visitor facilities, restaurants and other indoor attractions provide alternatives. Another option is a fantastic volcano exhibition (Eldheimar) that allows you to relive the events from 1973.

If Heimaey is an important part of your trip to Iceland, an overnight stay gives you considerably more flexibility.

Frequently asked questions about the Westman Islands#

What are the Westman Islands?#

The Westman Islands, or Vestmannaeyjar in Icelandic, are a volcanic archipelago right off the southern coast. Only Heimaey (the largest island) is permanently inhabited. The islands are known for their volcanic landscapes, enormous Atlantic puffin colony, fishing culture and extraordinarily recent geology.

What happened in the Westman Islands in 1973?#

On January 23, 1973, a volcanic fissure opened on the island of Heimaey. Nearly all of the island’s residents were evacuated, and the eruption created the new volcano, Eldfell. Lava destroyed or buried hundreds of buildings and threatened to close Heimaey’s fishing harbor. Islanders famously pumped seawater onto the advancing lava to cool it, and the harbor survived.

Why are they called the Westman Islands?#

Vestmannaeyjar means “Westman Islands” in Icelandic. According to Icelandic folklore, the enslaved Irish men who killed Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson fled to these islands, where Ingólfur Arnarson pursued them. Norse people referred to people from Ireland and the British Isles as “Westmen” because they came from lands to the west, giving these islands their name.

When is the best time to see puffins in the Westman Islands?#

Plan to visit from May through early September, with late spring and summer generally offering the most reliable viewing time for adult puffins. Puffins spend most of the year at sea and return to land to breed. Pufflings (young puffins) generally make their way from burrows to sea in early September.

Where is the best place to see puffins on Heimaey?#

Stórhöfði, at the southern end of Heimaey, is the island’s most popular puffin-viewing site. Puffins can also be seen elsewhere along the coast and from boat trips.

What is a puffling?#

A puffling is a baby puffin. After hatching and spending its first few weeks in its burrow, the young bird emerges one night and makes its way toward the ocean.

Why do children in Vestmannaeyjar rescue baby puffins?#

When young puffins leave their burrows in late summer, some become confused by the lights of the town and head inland instead of toward the sea. Local children and families search the streets after dark, collect stranded pufflings, and release them safely toward the ocean. The annual puffling rescue has become one of Heimaey’s most distinctive traditions.

Can you see puffins in the Westman Islands in September?#

Possibly, but September is generally too late for reliable viewing of adult puffins at the nesting cliffs. Most have returned to sea by then. Early September can, however, overlap with puffling season, when some baby birds are leaving their burrows. The exact timing varies each year.

How do you get to the Westman Islands?#

Most visitors reach Heimaey on the Herjólfur ferry, which normally operates from Landeyjahöfn (on Iceland’s southern coast). Because weather and sea conditions can affect operations, you’ll want to check the current sailing schedule and departure information before you travel.

How long is the ferry to the Westman Islands?#

The normal ferry crossing between Landeyjahöfn and Heimaey takes about 35-45 minutes, making the Westman Islands very practical to visit as part of a southern coast itinerary.

Can you take a rental car on the ferry to Heimaey?#

Yes, the ferry carries vehicles. You have to reserve vehicle space ahead of time, particularly during busy periods, and also check your rental company’s terms before taking the car to the island.

Do you need a car on Heimaey?#

Not necessarily. The town, harbor and several attractions are close enough to explore without one. A car is useful if you want to reach places like Stórhöfði, or to cover more of the island in a limited amount of time. Tours, taxis and other transportation options can also work for anyone arriving without a vehicle.

Can you visit the Westman Islands in one day?#

Yes. The short ferry crossing makes Heimaey a feasible day trip from Iceland’s coast. In one day, you can explore the town and harbor and explore the 1973 eruption story of Eldfell, for example. Trying to see everything in a single day, however, doesn’t usually work out.

Is it worth staying overnight on Heimaey?#

Yes, particularly if the Westman Islands are an important part of your trip to Iceland. Staying overnight gives you more time for hiking, boat trips, wildlife viewing and exploring the town, while also giving you flexibility if the weather changes. An overnight stay is especially worthwhile during puffling season since the traditional searches take place after dark.

Can you visit Surtsey?#

Not as an ordinary visitor. Surtsey is highly protected and access is restricted primarily to scientific research. That limited human interference has allowed researchers to study how plants and animals colonize new volcanic land. Visitors to the Westman Islands can see Surtsey from a distance in suitable conditions, but should not expect to land there.